{"id":8286,"date":"2026-10-19T15:18:28","date_gmt":"2026-10-19T06:18:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/parade.kyoto\/?post_type=sweetlore&p=8286"},"modified":"2026-10-31T18:49:26","modified_gmt":"2026-10-31T09:49:26","slug":"panettone","status":"publish","type":"sweetlore","link":"https:\/\/parade.kyoto\/en\/sweetlore\/panettone\/","title":{"rendered":"Panettone"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cut into the bread that rises in a dome above its paper mold, and raisins and candied citrus appear among air pockets stretched vertically. Panettone, associated with Milan, is a leavened Christmas sweet made with plenty of eggs and butter. There are also low, wide versions and versions topped with a nut-studded glaze, and the custom of giving and sharing these large baked sweets has spread to many places.<\/p>\n

\n\"Tall\n
A tall panettone and its cut surface. Raisins and pieces of fruit are visible in the vertically stretched crumb (December 19, 2016). Photo: N i c o l a from Fiumicino (Rome), Italy \/ Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \/ CC BY 2.0<\/a>. Reduced-size version obtained from Commons. No content alterations or cropping.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n

Lightness Created by a Natural Starter and the Order of Mixing<\/h2>\n

Lievito madre is a natural starter maintained by refreshing it with flour and water so that yeasts and lactic acid bacteria remain active. This starter is refreshed repeatedly and then added to a dough rich in sugar and fat. The yeasts in the starter produce gas, which makes the dough rise.<\/p>\n

After the first dough has risen sufficiently, fresh flour, sugar, egg yolks and butter are combined with it. Even dough that looks slack just after the ingredients are added comes together as it is mixed and regains its elasticity and extensibility. Alfonso Pepe refreshes the starter 3 times on the day of production, incorporates the butter and egg yolks in several additions, and lets the first dough ferment until it has tripled. In the next kneading as well, flour is added and kneaded first, sugar and fat are added in stages, and the dough is finished so that it resists tearing even when stretched thin.<\/p>\n

The fruit is added after the dough has been thoroughly kneaded. Rehydrated raisins are drained well and mixed, together with candied citrus, into the elastic dough. That the texture turns out light despite the large amount of fruit is due not only to the fermentation time but also to the order in which ingredients are added and the work of kneading and conditioning the dough each time.<\/p>\n

Shaping, Scoring and Hanging Upside Down After Baking<\/h2>\n

The divided dough is given surface tension through pirlatura and placed in paper molds. It is left to rise fully in the mold as well, and then the top is scored in a step called scarpatura. Some methods cut a cross into the top and place a small amount of butter in the center.<\/p>\n

The tall, soft dough must be cooled after baking so that it does not collapse. In Pepe\u2019s method, metal skewers are passed through the panettone and it is immediately hung upside down to cool for 1 night. This step lets it cool while keeping its risen shape. The paper mold supports the dough from baking through cooling and is left on during wrapping and boxing.<\/p>\n

\n\"A\n
Photo showing a cross-section with fruit alongside the exterior. In the source, it is published as an image with the background removed. Date taken unknown; published in 2008. Photo: Hartung \/ Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \/ Public domain (based on the notice in the source file). Reduced-size version obtained from Commons. No content alterations or cropping.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n

The Etymology \u201cBig Bread\u201d and Two Origin Legends<\/h2>\n

The name derives from the Milanese panatton. The Accademia della Crusca explains that its original meaning was \u201cbig bread\u201d and regards the theory that it derives from a person\u2019s name as a story that arose later.<\/p>\n

In the legend of Toni, at a banquet held by Ludovico Sforza in the late 15th century, a young kitchen worker assigned to keep watch falls asleep and burns the dessert. When it is remade by adding butter, raisins and candied fruit to leftover bread dough, it delights the duke and comes to be served every Christmas.<\/p>\n

In another story, a young man in love with Adalgisa, daughter of the baker Toni, enters her father\u2019s shop and improves its poorly selling bread. This young man, called Ugo or Ughetto, adds raisins, sugar, eggs and candied fruit, revives the shop\u2019s business and wins his love. There are variants in the characters\u2019 names and the details, and the similarity in sound to ughetta, the Milanese word for raisins, has also been pointed out. Two legends recounting the birth of panettone have thus been handed down: one about covering up a mishap at a banquet, and one about reviving a sweetheart\u2019s family business.<\/p>\n

From Records of Festive Bread to Today\u2019s Tall Form<\/h2>\n

In 1599, the Collegio Borromeo in Pavia supplied a baker with butter, raisins and spices for 13 large loaves to be given to students at Christmas. These differ from today\u2019s tall panettone, but they show a custom of giving bread made with generous ingredients on festive days.<\/p>\n

In the 3rd edition (1853) of Giovanni Felice Luraschi\u2019s \u201cNuovo cuoco milanese economico,\u201d the entry \u201cDough for making panattoni\u201d lists starter, flour, melted butter, sugar and raisins, and does not mention eggs. The dough is shaped into large and small pieces, placed on buttered paper and left to rise in a warm place; once risen, a cross is cut into it and it is baked, then served with foreign wine. Using paper and scoring the top were part of the process even before the modern tall form emerged.<\/p>\n

Angelo Motta, who opened a workshop in Milan in 1919, reworked the sweet to be taller, softer and richer in raisins. Production expanded from the shop to a factory, and in the 20th century large, wrapped gift panettoni came into wide circulation.<\/p>\n

A Christmas Sweet Spread by Mass Production and Sales Networks<\/h2>\n

Following Motta, Gioacchino Alemagna also pursued mass production. Starting from a bar in Melegnano in 1921, he expanded the business to a shop in central Milan and then to a factory. During the postwar economic boom, he also opened factories in Cornaredo, near Milan, and in Naples, delivering sweets to shops throughout the country. Motorway shops run in cooperation with his competitors Motta and Pavesi also increased the opportunities to buy panettone while traveling.<\/p>\n

Milan\u2019s festive sweet, once chosen at city pastry shops, also became a Christmas product wrapped in factories and delivered to households everywhere. In the 1970s, Motta and Alemagna both came under the control of SME, the food holding company of the state-owned IRI group. Expansion through competition was followed by corporate consolidation.<\/p>\n

Meanwhile, artisan workshops continue to make panettoni one at a time. The \u201ctraditional Milanese artisan panettone\u201d mark, promoted by Milan\u2019s chamber of commerce and other bodies, stands for fresh handmade products made without preservatives and connects the city\u2019s bakeries and pastry shops. While factory-made products circulate widely, panettoni made in local workshops are also sold.<\/p>\n

Pinerolo\u2019s Low Panettone with a Nut Glaze<\/h2>\n

The panettone made in Pinerolo, Piedmont, is low and wide and is topped with a hazelnut and almond glaze. In addition to the fruit mixed into the dough, it offers the crunch of the thin glaze on the surface and the aroma of the nuts. It is sometimes served with Asti or Moscato wine.<\/p>\n

\n\"Panettone\n
A \u201cbonbon-style\u201d panettone made by Ra\u00fal Asencio, a pastry chef in Aspe, Spain (December 24, 2020). Outside Italy, too, artisans are creating their own versions. Photo: Francesc Fort \/ Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \/ CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>. Reduced-size version obtained from Commons. No content alterations or cropping.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n

Panettone Shared on the Feast of San Biagio<\/h2>\n

In Lombardy, leftover Christmas panettone is eaten on February 3, the feast of San Biagio, and linked to prayers to the saint who protects the throat. A 2025 record from a church in Seregno describes how, after throats were blessed with crossed candles, a piece of panettone was handed out in a bag. The festival in Monza also includes servings of panettone, so the Christmas sweet is also shared at gatherings celebrating the saint\u2019s day.<\/p>\n

Serving and Storage After Cutting<\/h2>\n

Sliced panettone can be eaten as is or enjoyed with fruit or whipped cream. For the Muzzi product featured by Eataly, the suggested pairings are berries and whipped cream, afternoon coffee, and after-dinner wine. The flavors of fruit and dairy served alongside layer onto the raisins and candied fruit in the dough.<\/p>\n

The shelf life of an unopened product and the period during which its flavor is maintained after opening are separate matters. Bonci in Rome gives, as guidelines for its own panettone, about 30 days from production for unopened products stored properly, and about 3\u20135 days for flavor and softness after opening. After opening, it advises closing the original bag tightly or wrapping the panettone in food film and keeping it in a cool, dry place away from heat sources. These periods are guidelines for that company\u2019s products and are not time limits that apply to all panettoni, including those filled with cream.<\/p>\n

Panettone\u2019s Spread in Peru and Brazil<\/h2>\n

In Peru, panet\u00f3n appears on family tables at Christmas and as gifts in the workplace. Following the low fruit bread introduced by Ligurian immigrants, the tall Milanese style spread from the mid-20th century, and industrial production brought it to many households. Some versions use quinoa, local cacao or dried goldenberries (physalis).<\/p>\n

In Brazil, doughs from Italian immigrant families spread, and Bauducco continues to maintain a mother starter brought from Italy in 1952. Alongside versions with fruit, chocottone, which has chocolate mixed in, is also popular.<\/p>\n

Naming Regulations That Define Shape and Formulation<\/h2>\n

Italy\u2019s 2005 naming regulations set a natural starter, a round base, a cracked top and vertically elongated air cells as the basic features. Together with the 2017 amendment, they set minimums of 4% egg yolk, 16% milk fat derived from butter, and 20% raisins and candied citrus.<\/p>\n

Under the calculation method in the annex, egg yolk and milk fat are based on the dry weight of the dough just before dividing, excluding fruit and similar ingredients, while fruit is based on the dry weight of the entire dough. The basis therefore differs from that of the nutrition labeling for 1 slice.<\/p>\n

There are also naming conditions for versions without fruit, with cream fillings and with chocolate coatings. Some panettoni contain no fruit, but they are a different sweet from Verona\u2019s pandoro<\/a>. Pandoro has an 8-pointed star shape, an even, fine crumb, and the aroma of butter and vanilla. Even as the fruit and surface finishes change, the custom of sharing a round bread made with generous amounts of eggs and butter has been carried on.<\/p>\n

Glossary<\/h2>\n

Giovanni Felice Luraschi<\/strong>: A 19th-century Milanese cook and author of \u201cNuovo cuoco milanese economico.\u201d<\/p>

Seregno<\/strong>: A town in the Lombardy region of Italy.<\/p>

Lievito madre<\/strong>: A natural starter maintained by refreshing it with flour, water and so on. In panettone, the activity of yeasts and lactic acid bacteria contributes to fermentation and aroma.<\/p>

Kneading<\/strong>: The process of mixing and kneading ingredients to incorporate them evenly into the dough and develop its elasticity and extensibility.<\/p>

Pirlatura<\/strong>: Rounding the dough by rotating it on the work surface to tighten its surface.<\/p>

Scarpatura<\/strong>: Scoring the top of a panettone before baking.<\/p>

Alfonso Pepe<\/strong>: An Italian pastry chef who has published a panettone method that uses a natural starter and builds the dough in stages.<\/p>

Toni<\/strong>: The young cook or kitchen worker who appears in a panettone origin legend. Described as a legendary figure.<\/p>

Angelo Motta<\/strong>: A 20th-century Milanese confectionery maker. He opened a workshop in 1919 and was involved in popularizing the tall panettone.<\/p>

San Biagio<\/strong>: A Christian saint. In northern Italy, his winter feast is linked with the custom of eating panettone.<\/p>

Dry weight<\/strong>: Weight compared with the moisture removed. Used as the basis for calculating ingredient ratios under the naming regulations.<\/p>

Bonci<\/strong>: The shop and brand of Roman baker Gabriele Bonci. The storage periods in the text come from the shop\u2019s guidance for its panettone.<\/p>

Muzzi<\/strong>: An Italian confectionery maker. Appears in the text in a serving example for a panettone carried by Eataly.<\/p>

References<\/h2>\n
  1. Ricetta Panettone – La Ricetta di GialloZafferano<\/a> \u2014 Refreshing the starter, two-stage kneading, adding fat and egg yolks in portions, adding fruit last, rounding\/scoring\/cooling upside down.<\/li>
  2. Spigolature d\u2019Archivio \u2013 dicembre 1599: panettone per gli Alunni \u2013 Collegio Borromeo<\/a> \u2014 Menu record of December 23, 1599, and 13 large Christmas loaves for students; butter\/raisins\/spices.<\/li>
  3. La tradizione | Motta Milano<\/a> \u2014 Founding of the workshop in 1919, changes to a taller, softer version with more raisins, factory at the end of the 1930s.<\/li>
  4. Panett\u00f3ne – Significato ed etimologia – Vocabolario – Treccani<\/a> \u2014 Milanese panatt\u00f3n, two-stage dough, Christmas.<\/li>
  5. Storia del pandoro e del panettone – Italia.it<\/a> \u2014 Legend of Toni and a court origin, Christmas culture.<\/li>
  6. Il Natale \u00e8 dolce in Piemonte | VisitPiemonte<\/a> \u2014 Pinerolo\u2019s low form, hazelnut\/almond glaze, local wine.<\/li>
  7. EFE\/Andina (December 24, 2025), El panet\u00f3n es el gran protagonista de la Navidad en el Per\u00fa<\/a> \u2014 Christmas tables and corporate gifts in Peru, from the low Ligurian type to the tall Milanese type, local ingredients.<\/li>
  8. Sobre a Bauducco<\/a> \u2014 From an immigrant family to a workshop in S\u00e3o Paulo; factory in 1962.<\/li>
  9. Site Bauducco<\/a> \u2014 Continued maintenance of the mother starter brought from Italy in 1952.<\/li>
  10. Bauducco: Chocottone<\/a> \u2014 Difference between versions with fruit and versions with chocolate.<\/li>
  11. Sagra di San Biagio – Comune di Monza<\/a> \u2014 Panettone served at the present-day San Biagio festival in Monza.<\/li>
  12. Yoshimi Maruyama and Sanae Okada (2006), \u201cMicroorganisms Involved in the Fermentation of the Traditional Sourdough Bread \u2018Panettone\u2019\u201d: official conference abstract<\/a> \u2014 A starter refreshed with flour and water; maintaining the yeasts and lactic acid bacteria in Japan.<\/li>
  13. Official Gazette of Italy: Decree of July 22, 2005, Article 1, Panettone (original published text)<\/a> \u2014 The 2005 name, ingredients, and minimums of 4 egg yolk \/ 16 milk fat \/ 20 fruit.<\/li>
  14. Italian 2005 Ministerial Decree, Annex I<\/a> \u2014 Calculation basis: egg yolk\/fat on dry matter excluding inert ingredients; fruit on total dry matter.<\/li>
  15. Ministerial Decree of July 22, 2005, Annex II: Production Process<\/a> \u2014 Kneading, dividing, rounding, molding, fermentation, scoring, baking, cooling.<\/li>
  16. Ministerial Decree of July 22, 2005, Article 7: Special Formulations and Added Ingredients<\/a> \u2014 Special types omitting fruit or with fillings and toppings.<\/li>
  17. Official Gazette of Italy: 2017 Amending Decree on Production and Sales Names for Baked Confectionery (published June 14, 2017)<\/a> \u2014 The 2017 amendment for 4 egg yolk \/ 16 butter milk fat, and the conversion.<\/li>

  18. \u2022 Vera Gheno \/ Accademia della Crusca, \u201cPani di Natale\u201d<\/a> \u2014 The name meaning \u201cbig bread\u201d and the tale of Toni\u2019s rescue; Ughetto\u2019s love story and its relation to the word for raisins.<\/p><\/li>

  19. \n

    Giovanni Felice Luraschi, \u201cNuovo cuoco milanese economico,\u201d 3rd edition, 1853 (AtLiTeG critical edition)<\/a> \u2014 p290 no29: starter\/flour\/melted butter\/sugar\/raisins, no mention of eggs, large\/small shaping, paper\/proofing in a warm place\/cross cut\/baking\/foreign wine.<\/p>\n<\/li>

  20. \n

    Seregno Pastoral Community, \u201cL\u2019Amico della Famiglia,\u201d February 2025 issue<\/a> \u2014 Throat blessing with crossed candles on February 3, 2025 \/ distribution of panettone in bags; the tradition of eating Christmas leftovers.<\/p>\n<\/li>

  21. \n

    Intesa Sanpaolo Historical Archive, \u201cGli italiani festeggiano il \u201cmiracolo economico\u201d con il panettone\u201d (December 15, 2025)<\/a> \u2014 Alemagna\u2019s factories and sales network, the postwar spread, and the consolidation of the 1970s.<\/p>\n<\/li>

  22. \n

    YesMilano \/ Milano Monza Brianza Lodi Chamber of Commerce, \u201cPanettone il dolce di Milano,\u201d 2022<\/a> \u2014 The artisan mark and participating local workshops.<\/p>\n<\/li>

  23. \n

    Galbani, \u201cPanettone farcito,\u201d Curiosit\u00e0<\/a> \u2014 Modern retelling of the lore of Toni, Adalgisa, Ugo and the changes to the ingredients.<\/p>\n<\/li>

  24. Editorial Notes<\/h2><\/li>

  25. It has not been confirmed that Toni or Ughetto were the historical inventors. The text presents these stories as origin legends.<\/p><\/li>

  26. Bonci, \u201cPanettone tradizionale\u201d<\/a><\/li>
  27. Eataly, \u201cClassic Panettone \/ Tommaso Muzzi\u201d<\/a><\/li><\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Cut into a tall panettone taken from its large box, and raisins and candied citrus are scattered across the cut surface. Panettone is an Italian Christmas sweet associated with Milan. Its rich dough holds the time spent waiting for it to rise.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":6796,"menu_order":41,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_parade_sweetlore_meta":{"en":"Panettone","subtitle":"A Milanese Winter Sweet of Long-Fermented Dough Studded with Fruit","topics":"Milan \/ leavened dough \/ raisins and candied fruit","country":"Italy","show_toc":true,"ingredients":["fruit","butter","egg"],"texture":[],"occasion":["christmas"],"method":["baked","fermented"],"season":[]},"footnotes":""},"sweetlore_category":[166],"class_list":["post-8286","sweetlore","type-sweetlore","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"acf":{"sweetlore_related_products":null,"sweetlore_related_faqs":null,"sweetlore_related_voices":null,"sweetlore_related_mode":"manual","sweetlore_related_articles":[8287,8296,8274,8295,8302,8303,8304,8245]},"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t