{"id":8443,"date":"2026-10-19T23:31:57","date_gmt":"2026-10-19T14:31:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/parade.kyoto\/?post_type=sweetlore&#038;p=8443"},"modified":"2026-10-31T18:50:35","modified_gmt":"2026-10-31T09:50:35","slug":"cartellate","status":"publish","type":"sweetlore","link":"https:\/\/parade.kyoto\/en\/sweetlore\/cartellate\/","title":{"rendered":"Cartellate"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Cartellate are a Christmas sweet of Puglia and Basilicata. A single continuous strip of thin dough is pinched and rolled into a flower shape lined with small hollows. After being fried or baked, they are soaked in thick grape or fig syrup or in honey. The open flower shape is both decorative and a vessel that holds the sweet liquid.<\/p>\n<h2>Pinching a strip of dough and rolling it into a flower shape<\/h2>\n<p>The basic dough consists of flour, olive oil, white wine, and a little salt. After kneading and resting, the dough is rolled out thin and cut into long strips with a fluted pastry wheel or a similar tool. Each strip is folded lightly in half lengthwise, and the two sides are pinched together at regular intervals to create a row of small boat-shaped hollows. The strip is then rolled up from the center, with adjacent hollows fastened together, to form a spiral.<\/p>\n<p>The pinched points and the thin edges differ in thickness, so they also cook differently. Fastening the pinched points keeps the flower shape from coming apart, and the syrup added as the finish collects in the hollows.<\/p>\n<p>Some methods combine soft wheat flour with durum wheat semolina. In the method passed on by an artisan in Bari, the slightly grainy dough is passed through rollers repeatedly and folded back as it is thinned out. If it is rolled too thin, it breaks easily when the pieces are stacked after frying. For that reason, it is rolled to a thickness at which the strip holds its shape without breaking.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ezb966kqson.exactdn.com\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/sweetlore-photos-20261028\/de55c01403caa5902f50b452cd71ca34f73f21a945219bda2cd5a984e569516c.jpg?strip=all&quality=90&webp=92&avif=55&w=1920\" alt=\"Shaping cartellate: a narrow strip of dough is pinched and rolled into a flower shape.\" style=\"max-width:1280px;width:100%;height:auto\"><\/p>\n<p>Shaping cartellate: a narrow strip of dough is pinched and rolled into a flower shape. Photo: Horcrux, 2019-12-21, location unknown. <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Cartellate_di_Canosa_%283%29.jpg\">Original image<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\/\">CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>. Reduced-size version from the source; no additional processing.<\/p>\n<h2>Resting the dough, then shaping and drying<\/h2>\n<p>In some methods, the shaped flowers are set out with space between them and left for about one night to dry. In the published recipe (ingredient proportions and method) of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina (Italian Academy of Cuisine), too, the strips are pinched and rolled, then left to dry until the next day before frying. Resting the kneaded dough and drying it after shaping are separate steps.<\/p>\n<p>When frying, the flowers are handled carefully so as not to break them, then lifted out of the oil and drained well. In some versions, citrus peel is used to perfume the oil. Baking in the oven is also a traditional method. In both cases, the syrup is applied after cooking, so sweetness is added at a different stage from sweets that have a lot of sugar worked into the dough.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ezb966kqson.exactdn.com\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/sweetlore-photos-20261028\/1b302f9af98a378912da657db81956a2be059f6dcc3f5cf7decac97962878413.jpg?strip=all&quality=90&webp=92&avif=55&w=1920\" alt=\"Fried cartellate set on paper. The flower shape of the rolled strip and the fried surface are visible.\" style=\"max-width:1280px;width:100%;height:auto\"><\/p>\n<p>Fried cartellate set on paper. The flower shape of the rolled strip and the fried surface are visible. Photo: Horcrux, 2019-12-21, location unknown. <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Cartellate_di_Canosa_%285%29.jpg\">Original image<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\/\">CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>. Reduced-size version from the source; no additional processing.<\/p>\n<h2>Grape syrup, fig syrup, and honey<\/h2>\n<p>Vincotto is a thick sweetener made by cooking down grape juice or similar liquids. Dipping the flowers a few at a time into the warmed syrup, then lifting them out and draining off the excess, keeps the sweetness in the hollows while leaving the edges exposed. Rather than being coated thickly with syrup, the cartellate are finished with the open hollows of the flower shape left visible.<\/p>\n<p>In Puglia, cotto di fichi is also used: ripe figs are crushed, and the juice is squeezed out through a cloth bag and heated. Locally, cooked-down fig juice is sometimes also called vincotto di fichi. Usage that refers only to grape juice overlaps with usage that refers broadly to concentrated fruit syrups.<\/p>\n<p>In versions made with honey, the flowers are dipped in honey warmed in a water bath or by similar means, or honey loosened with a little water is poured over them. Finally, they are garnished with anicini (tiny anise-flavored candies), colored sugar, pine nuts, almonds, cinnamon, and so on. Dark fruit syrup and light honey give different colors and aromas.<\/p>\n<figure>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ezb966kqson.exactdn.com\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/sweetlore-photos-20261028\/c3fba56cdb0c8d104c27a1f278d534b84d4c98ea1c9b0fdf60a1e79d8113ad3d.jpg?strip=all&quality=90&webp=92&avif=55&w=1920\" alt=\"Cartellate coated in dark syrup\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"max-width:1024px;width:100%;height:auto\">\n<figcaption>Cartellate coated in vino cotto from Cerignola. Dark, syrup-soaked flower shapes arranged on a plate. Location and date unknown. Photo: Pierluigi Falcone \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Cartellate_01.jpg\">Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/Commons:Licensing\">Public domain<\/a>. Full-size image obtained. No content alterations or cropping for this article.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h2>Theories on the origin of the name and shape, and records of old tables<\/h2>\n<p>Material on traditional foods from the Puglia region presents a theory linking the name to \u201ckartellas,\u201d a Greek word for basket. According to this theory, the hollows in the dough were likened to a basket. Among local tourism organizations, another theory holds that the name comes from \u201ccarta,\u201d meaning thin paper. There is no settled etymology, and regional pronunciations such as scarteddate also survive.<\/p>\n<p>The strip of dough is also likened to the swaddling cloth of the infant Jesus, or to a halo or the crown of thorns of the Passion. Two different scenes, the Nativity and the Passion, are overlaid on the same shape.<\/p>\n<p>In Bari, the sweet appears in the 1762 records of meals and expenses of the Monastery of Santa Scolastica, and a local newspaper in 1906 describes it as a Christmas sweet. Records survive from the monastery table and from later celebrations, but the original inventor and any lineage going back to antiquity are unknown.<\/p>\n<h2>A Christmas sweet of Puglia and Basilicata<\/h2>\n<p>As Christmas approaches, families in Puglia gather in the kitchen and share the work of pinching and rolling the strips. Making many flowers at once and going through the stages of drying, cooking, and coating with syrup are also part of preparing for the celebration.<\/p>\n<p>The sweet is also popular in Basilicata; in Pisticci, it is counted among the Christmas sweets under the corresponding local name \u201cngartagliato.\u201d In Ruvo del Monte, fried cartellate are topped with vino cotto and chopped toasted almonds. Names, syrups, and decorations differ between the two regions, and each family and town hands the sweet down as a celebratory treat.<\/p>\n<h2 data-parade-glossary=\"1\">Glossary<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Puglia \/ Basilicata<\/strong>: Two neighboring regions in southern Italy. Cartellate are a tradition in both.<\/p><p><strong>Semolina<\/strong>: A granular flour obtained from durum wheat. Some doughs combine it with soft wheat flour.<\/p><p><strong>Vincotto \/ vino cotto<\/strong>: Names for a sweetener made by cooking down grape juice or similar liquids. The ingredients and usage vary by area.<\/p><p><strong>Cotto di fichi<\/strong>: A thick sweetener made by squeezing and heating the juice of ripe figs.<\/p><p><strong>Anicini<\/strong>: Tiny anise-flavored candies, also scattered over this sweet as a finishing touch.<\/p><p><strong>Scarteddate<\/strong>: A regional name recorded in descriptive material on traditional Apulian foods.<\/p><h2 data-parade-references=\"1\">References<\/h2>\n<ol><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.viaggiareinpuglia.it\/it\/dettaglio-tipicita\/cartellate\">Puglia Promozione, \u201cCartellate\u201d<\/a> \u2014 Christmas in the home, the dough, frying oil perfumed with citrus peel, honey and decorations.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.viaggiareinpuglia.it\/it\/dettaglio-tipicita\/cotto-fico\">Puglia Promozione, \u201cCotto di fico\u201d<\/a> \u2014 Squeezing and heating ripe figs, use in celebratory sweets.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.accademiaitalianadellacucina.it\/it\/ricette\/ricetta\/cartellate\">Accademia Italiana della Cucina, \u201cCartellate,\u201d published recipe<\/a> \u2014 Pinching and rolling the strips, drying overnight, frying and coating with syrup the next day, the honey version.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.scattidigusto.it\/cartellate-pugliesi-ricetta-originale-scientifica\">Scatti di Gusto, interview with Panificio Arciuli, \u201cCartellate pugliesi\u201d<\/a> \u2014 Dough combined with semolina, adjusting it with rollers, a thickness less prone to breaking, resting after shaping, local usage of fig syrup.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/accademiaitalianadellacucina.it\/sites\/default\/files\/allegati\/376_DIC_2024_INTERNATIONAL.pdf\">Accademia, \u201cCivilt\u00e0 della Tavola,\u201d December 2024, English edition<\/a> \u2014 Christmas in Puglia and the fried or baked flower-shaped sweet.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.basilicataturistica.it\/territori\/pisticci\/\">Basilicata Turistica, \u201cPisticci\u201d<\/a> \u2014 The local name and Christmas food culture.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.basilicataturistica.it\/territori\/ruvo-del-monte\/\">Basilicata Turistica, \u201cRuvo del Monte\u201d<\/a> \u2014 A local version in which the fried sweet is served with vino cotto and chopped toasted almonds. This page alone does not define the ingredients or production method of vino cotto.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.patpuglia.it\/it\/12\/Cartellate\/3_321_N\">PAT Puglia, \u201cCartellate\u201d<\/a> \u2014 Regional names, the basket etymology theory, the swaddling-cloth symbolism, mention of the 1906 local newspaper.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/prolocorignanogarganico.it\/eccellenze-gastronomiche-rignano-garganico\/cartellate\/\">Pro Loco Rignano Garganico, \u201cCartellate\u201d<\/a> \u2014 Local interpretations as a halo, cloth, and crown of thorns.<\/p>\n<\/li><li>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gamberorosso.it\/attualita\/cartellate-storia-dolce-pugliese\/\">Serena Curto, Gambero Rosso: Non c\u2019\u00e8 solo il panettone\u2026 2024-12-10<\/a> \u2014 Introduces the 1762 monastery record.<\/p>\n<\/li><\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Cartellate are a flower-shaped sweet made at Christmas in Puglia, Italy. Strips of thinly rolled dough are pinched into spirals, fried or baked, and coated in honey or vincotto. Small hollows line the spaces between the golden petals and catch the thick syrup.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":7468,"menu_order":214,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_parade_sweetlore_meta":{"en":"Cartellate","subtitle":"Holding vincotto in small petals of dough","topics":"Pinching thin strips into spirals\uff0fFried versions and baked versions\uff0fThe deep sweetness of grapes and figs","country":"Puglia, Italy","show_toc":true,"ingredients":["honey"],"texture":[],"occasion":["christmas","easter"],"method":["baked","fried"],"season":[]},"footnotes":""},"sweetlore_category":[169],"class_list":["post-8443","sweetlore","type-sweetlore","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"acf":{"sweetlore_related_products":null,"sweetlore_related_faqs":null,"sweetlore_related_voices":null,"sweetlore_related_mode":"auto","sweetlore_related_articles":null},"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t<!-- All in One SEO Pro 5.0.4 - aioseo.com -->\n\t<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cartellate are flower-shaped sweets made at Christmas in Puglia, Italy. 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