{"id":8555,"date":"2026-10-26T18:39:16","date_gmt":"2026-10-26T09:39:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/parade.kyoto\/?post_type=sweetlore&#038;p=8555"},"modified":"2026-10-31T18:51:15","modified_gmt":"2026-10-31T09:51:15","slug":"lokum","status":"publish","type":"sweetlore","link":"https:\/\/parade.kyoto\/en\/sweetlore\/lokum\/","title":{"rendered":"Lokum"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Lokum is a Turkish sugar confection made by heating sugar, starch and water to give it a soft, springy elasticity. It is well known as small cut cubes coated in powder, and it may be flavored with rose or citrus, or have pistachios or hazelnuts added. Even when it is translucent like jelly, what gives it its basic form is not gelatin but cooked starch.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ezb966kqson.exactdn.com\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/sweetlore-20261026-figure-21c16b14464794a1.webp?strip=all&quality=90&webp=92&avif=55&w=1920\" alt=\"Lokum with nuts, in cubes and in rolls, laid out side by side. The cut faces and the powder on the outside show how the interior and the surface are made differently.\" style=\"max-width:960px;width:100%;height:auto\"><\/p>\n<p>Lokum with nuts, in cubes and in rolls, laid out side by side. The cut faces and the powder on the outside show how the interior and the surface are made differently. Photo: <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Lokum.jpg\">Source<\/a>, Yasinuslu34, <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Lokum.jpg\">Public domain (rights waived by the author)<\/a>. Image not modified (downsized version from the hosting source).<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ezb966kqson.exactdn.com\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/sweetlore-photos-20261028\/ac3f77d4e3ed1795d790c4c91b94e7df824180748c6839a1405cffe02e42a2f9.jpg?strip=all&quality=90&webp=92&avif=55&w=1920\" alt=\"An example of mint lokum\" style=\"max-width:1280px;width:100%;height:auto\"><\/p>\n<p><em>An example of mint lokum (from a confectionery shop in Berlin, 2014; location of photo unknown). Photo: <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=User:Hozgerlingen&amp;action=edit&amp;redlink=1\">c.berlin<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Confiserie_orientale_berlin_lokum_minze.jpg\">Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\">CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n<h2>Turning a sweet liquid into a softness that can be cut<\/h2>\n<p>When heated with water, starch swells and makes the liquid viscous. For lokum, a liquid dense with sugar is cooked while being stirred, transferred to a mold, left to rest and then cut. The sweetness of the syrup combines with the cohesion created by the starch to give a texture that holds the shape of each piece yet breaks down softly in the mouth.<\/p>\n<p>When acid is added, citric acid, tartaric acid or similar is used. What is added, and at what stage, including flavorings and nuts, varies according to the maker&#8217;s recette (the ingredient proportions and method). Even when the same sweetener is used, the mechanism that holds its shape differs from that of hard candy, which sets sugar alone, or <a href=\"https:\/\/parade.kyoto\/en\/sweetlore\/pismaniye\/\">pi\u015fmaniye<\/a>, in which sugar is pulled into fine threads.<\/p>\n<p>The powder on the surface is not only a sweet decoration; it also helps keep cut faces from sticking to one another. Because the pieces can be divided while the inside stays soft, many flavors can be lined up in the same box. Pistachio lokum adds the sensation of biting into the nuts, while rose-flavored lokum carries the fragrance in the smooth paste itself. Beyond the exterior color and the amount of nuts, the softness of the confection&#8217;s paste also differs from product to product.<\/p>\n<p>Lokum&#8217;s texture also changes with the ratio of sugar, starch and water. A study comparing four different formulations found that hardness and elasticity already differed at the time of making, and that during storage hardness and adhesiveness tended to increase while elasticity decreased. Even when the same three ingredient names are listed, the texture is not necessarily the same.<\/p>\n<p>In another production study, starch, sugar, water and citric acid were heated, then poured into molds and rested at 25\u00b0C for 48 hours. A stage in which the starch is cooked in a dense syrup to create cohesion is followed by a stage in which the mass is cooled and brought to a state that can be cut. The hot mass that has just finished cooking is not yet the finished cube.<\/p>\n<h2>Two lines of origin, and how starch is used<\/h2>\n<p>Theories about the forerunner of lokum include one linking it to louk, a medieval Arab preparation combining honey or sugar with fruit, resins and other ingredients, and another holding that it developed from paluze, an Ottoman sweet starch dish. The food historian \u00d6zge Samanc\u0131 explains these two as separate views on its origin. That sweets with similar ingredients existed earlier is not the same event as the present-day cubed lokum being invented all at once.<\/p>\n<p>The name rahat-ul hulkum appears in 17th-century sources, and an 18th-century Ottoman recette also describes adding wheat starch to a syrup of white sugar and water and cooking it. Before the refinement and supply of ingredients changed in the 19th century, the technique of combining starch with a sweet syrup was already in use.<\/p>\n<h2>The Hac\u0131 Bekir shop and changing ingredients<\/h2>\n<p>A name often mentioned in the history of lokum is Hac\u0131 Bekir, a confectionery shop in Istanbul. Its founder, Bekir Efendi, moved from Ara\u00e7 in Kastamonu and opened the shop in Bah\u00e7ekap\u0131 in 1777. The work passed to his successor, Mehmet Muhiddin, and then to Ali Muhiddin after him, and the shop&#8217;s name spread along with its deliveries to the Ottoman court.<\/p>\n<p>Leyla Celaliyan, the sixth generation of the shop, says that old lokum was sweetened with honey or pekmez and bound with wheat flour. According to this explanation handed down in the family, once refined sugar and starch came into use, it moved closer to its present form, pale in color and translucent. The change in ingredients is remembered as something that altered not only the sweetness but also the color and texture.<\/p>\n<p>1777 is the year the shop was founded, which is not the same as the year all lokum was invented. Even in the testimony of the same family, the sweet itself is regarded as a food known from earlier. Rather than a story that leads back to a single inventor, in which it was suddenly invented for a ruler who wanted a soft sweet, what can be seen is a process in which an existing confection changed through its ingredients and commercial production.<\/p>\n<h2>A sweet cooled and cut, as described in an 1844 cookbook<\/h2>\n<p>Mehmed K\u00e2mil&#8217;s Melce\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een is a cookbook published in Istanbul in 1844. Its rahat-ul hulkum calls for mixing starch little by little into fine-quality sugar boiled in water. It instructs constant stirring so that no lumps form and nothing sticks to the bottom of the pan.<\/p>\n<p>Rose water and musk are used for fragrance, and the cooked mass is poured onto a tray greased with almond oil. Once cool, it is cut into pieces of the desired size and dusted with a powder of starch and sugar to keep the pieces from sticking together. Another method also oils the scissors before cutting. The procedure of binding with starch, cooling, and coating the cut faces with powder is already set out concretely in a 19th-century cookbook.<\/p>\n<p>The strong fragrance of musk is not the same as today&#8217;s wide range of fruit and nut flavors. Even as the flavorings have changed, there is continuity in the procedure of cutting a sticky confection into small pieces to handle it.<\/p>\n<h2>Names that continue beyond \u201cTurkish delight\u201d<\/h2>\n<p>In English it is called Turkish delight. Among older Turkish names is the form rahat-ul hulkum, linked to \u201ccomfort of the throat.\u201d Explanations of the etymological relationship between the short name lokum and this long name differ, but it spread to many places as a name indicating a soft mouthfeel.<\/p>\n<p>In 1835, Friedrich Unger, court confectioner to the King of Greece, traveled to Istanbul, studied its confectionery and helva shops, and also visited the confectionery kitchens of Topkap\u0131 Palace. His book published in 1838 included four methods related to lokum. Even when European confectioners had the chance to learn the ingredients, it was difficult to reproduce from a short written description everything down to how far to cook the mixture and how to move the hands. The spread of lokum also shows that the transmission of a name and ingredients was a separate matter from mastering the work of creating its soft texture.<\/p>\n<p>In regions including former Ottoman territories, it is eaten under similar names, such as loukoumi in Greek and ratluk or rahat in the Balkans. In Geroskipou, Cyprus, there is also a product with a geographical indication, Loukoumi Geroskipou. The application specification for this local product, published in 2007, lists as a distinguishing feature that it uses no glucose and no gelatin. Sugar and citric acid are added to water and boiled, then cornstarch dispersed in cold water is added, the mixture is stirred for a long time, flavorings or nuts are added, and it is poured into box-shaped molds. Once cool, it is cut into rectangular blocks and coated with sugar or desiccated coconut.<\/p>\n<p>The local production history is tied to a lineage that began when Sofoklis Athanasiou opened a shop in 1895 and passed the work on to his family. The history of the workshop described in the application specification shows a history of production carried on in Cyprus, separate from a history that explains every region through a single shop in Istanbul.<\/p>\n<figure>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ezb966kqson.exactdn.com\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/sweetlore-photos-20261028\/84b17eb22b1e5e0e66787fb1570ed03e80c5fe5abe7b923e8647ed35e80a4cee.jpg?strip=all&quality=90&webp=92&avif=55&w=1920\" alt=\"A shop counter displaying lokum of different colors and shapes\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"max-width:1280px;width:100%;height:auto\">\n<figcaption>A shop counter displaying lokum of different colors and shapes (2008; location unknown). Small cut pieces and rolled pieces are piled up in heaps. Photo: Chris Brown \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Turkish_Delight_lokum.jpg\">Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/2.0\">CC BY 2.0<\/a>. Image obtained from the hosting source. No content alterations or cropping made for this use.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h2>Festive hospitality, and today&#8217;s workshop<\/h2>\n<p>Lokum is one of the sweets served to guests at Ramazan Bayram\u0131, the festival marking the end of the month of fasting. A confection that can be cut into small pieces suits occasions when people visit relatives and neighbors and hand out sweets to children. In everyday life it may also accompany coffee, and it exists both packed into gift boxes and served one piece at a time.<\/p>\n<p>At today&#8217;s Hac\u0131 Bekir, the process once carried out by stirring copper pans over an open flame by hand now uses sealed steel kettles and mixers. Even so, craftspeople are said to be involved in deciding when to move on to the next stage. Some tasks can be left to machines, while others remain human work, such as judging when the cooking is done. It is not cut immediately after being poured into molds; the soft piece is completed only through the whole process, including resting it before shaping.<\/p>\n<h2 data-parade-glossary=\"1\">Glossary<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Lokum<\/strong>: A soft sugar confection based mainly on sugar and starch.<\/p><p><strong>Recette<\/strong>: The full set of ingredient proportions and method.<\/p><p><strong>Hac\u0131 Bekir<\/strong>: An Istanbul confectionery shop founded in 1777. Its founder was Bekir Efendi.<\/p><p><strong>Bekir Efendi<\/strong>: A confectioner who opened a shop in Istanbul in 1777. The founder of Hac\u0131 Bekir.<\/p><p><strong>Mehmet Muhiddin<\/strong>: The person who took over the family business as the generation after the founder.<\/p><p><strong>Ali Muhiddin<\/strong>: The person who took over the family business after Mehmet Muhiddin.<\/p><p><strong>Leyla Celaliyan<\/strong>: The sixth generation of Hac\u0131 Bekir. A firsthand source who spoke about the production history and the present-day workshop described in the text.<\/p><p><strong>Pekmez<\/strong>: A thick sweetener made by boiling down fruit juice.<\/p><p><strong>Turkish delight<\/strong>: The English name for lokum.<\/p><p><strong>Rahat-ul hulkum<\/strong>: An old name for lokum, linked to \u201ccomfort of the throat.\u201d<\/p><p><strong>Loukoumi Geroskipou<\/strong>: A sugar confection with a geographical indication, bearing the place name of Geroskipou, Cyprus.<\/p><p><strong>Ramazan Bayram\u0131<\/strong>: The festival held after the end of the Islamic month of fasting.<\/p><p><strong>Sofoklis Athanasiou<\/strong>: A person who began making confectionery in Geroskipou in 1895. The application specification for the regional product records the production history.<\/p><p><strong>Mehmed K\u00e2mil<\/strong>: The author of the cookbook Melce\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een, published in 1844.<\/p><p><strong>Melce\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een<\/strong>: A 19th-century Ottoman cookbook. It includes methods for making rahat-ul hulkum and ho\u015fmerim.<\/p><p><strong>Rose water<\/strong>: A flavoring in which the fragrance of roses has been transferred to water.<\/p><p><strong>Musk<\/strong>: An aromatic substance. In the text, a strongly scented ingredient used in the 19th-century recette.<\/p><p><strong>Friedrich Unger<\/strong>: A confectioner who studied Istanbul&#8217;s confectionery in 1835 and published his records in 1838.<\/p><p><strong>Louk<\/strong>: A name related to a medieval Arab sweet paste. It appears in one of the theories about lokum&#8217;s forerunner.<\/p><p><strong>Paluze<\/strong>: The name of a sweet dish made with starch. One theory links it to lokum&#8217;s forerunner.<\/p><p><strong>\u00d6zge Samanc\u0131<\/strong>: A researcher of Ottoman food history, cited for the text&#8217;s explanations of origin theories and old recettes.<\/p><h2 data-parade-references=\"1\">References<\/h2>\n<ol><li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.turktarim.gov.tr\/Haber\/1082\/turkish-delight-haci-bekirle-baslamis\">T\u00fcrk Tar\u0131m Orman Dergisi, \u201cHac\u0131 Bekir,\u201d 2024<\/a> \u2014 Testimony from the sixth generation on the founding, the family lineage, and changes in ingredients and the workshop.<\/li><li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebi.ac.uk\/europepmc\/webservices\/rest\/PMC8532161\/fullTextXML\">Pocan et al., \u201cDetection of Authenticity and Quality of Turkish Delights,\u201d 2021<\/a> \u2014 The structure formed by sugar and starch, and the production conditions of the samples.<\/li><li><a href=\"https:\/\/dergipark.org.tr\/en\/pub\/akademik-gida\/article\/613583\">Demira\u011f &amp; \u00c7etin, \u201cInstrumental Textural Properties,\u201d 2019<\/a> \u2014 Four formulations and differences in texture during storage. The abstract was read; the full-text PDF has not been read.<\/li><li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lezzet.com.tr\/yazarlar\/%C3%96zge%20Samanci\/yazi\/lokumun-tarihcesi\">\u00d6zge Samanc\u0131, \u201cLokumun Tarih\u00e7esi\u201d<\/a> \u2014 The researcher&#8217;s explanation of the two theories of the forerunner and of records from the 17th to 18th centuries.<\/li><li><a href=\"https:\/\/melceut-tabbahin.sitesi.ws\/2018\/10\/09\/rahatul-hulkum\/\">Mehmed K\u00e2mil, \u201cRahat\u00fc\u2019l-hulkum,\u201d published transcription<\/a> \u2014 Cooling, cutting and dusting with powder in the 1844 cookbook. The original printed edition has not been read.<\/li><li><a href=\"https:\/\/agriculture.ec.europa.eu\/farming\/geographical-indications-and-quality-schemes\/geographical-indications-food-and-drink\/loukoumi-geroskipou-pgi_en\">European Commission, \u201cLoukoumi Geroskipou PGI\u201d<\/a> \u2014 The history of the Cypriot workshop and the production method.<\/li><li><a href=\"https:\/\/eur-lex.europa.eu\/LexUriServ\/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:C:2007:088:0010:0013:EN:PDF\">EU Official Journal 2007\/C88\/03<\/a> \u2014 Ingredients and production method in the 2007 application specification.<\/li><li><a href=\"https:\/\/prospectbooks.co.uk\/products-page\/all-journals\/ppc-subs\/ppc-069-february-2002\/\">Priscilla Mary I\u015f\u0131n, \u201cA King\u2019s Confectioner in the Orient\u201d<\/a> \u2014 An expert&#8217;s commentary on Unger&#8217;s 1835 visit and his 1838 book. The original book has not been read.<\/li><\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Lokum is a Turkish sugar confection made by heating sugar, starch and water to give it a soft, springy elasticity. It is well known as small cut cubes coated in powder, and it may be flavored with rose or citrus, or have pistachios or hazelnuts added. Even when it is translucent like jelly, what forms its basic structure is not gelatin but cooked starch.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":7692,"menu_order":326,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_parade_sweetlore_meta":{"en":"Lokum","subtitle":"A soft starch confection that travels beyond cities and countries","topics":"Sugar and starch worked together and set\uff0fFragrances of rose, citrus and nuts\uff0fA Turkish confection offered to guests at celebrations","country":"Throughout Turkey","show_toc":true,"ingredients":["nuts"],"texture":[],"occasion":[],"method":["chilled","cooked"],"season":[]},"footnotes":""},"sweetlore_category":[159],"class_list":["post-8555","sweetlore","type-sweetlore","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"acf":{"sweetlore_related_products":null,"sweetlore_related_faqs":null,"sweetlore_related_voices":null,"sweetlore_related_mode":"auto","sweetlore_related_articles":null},"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t<!-- All in One SEO Pro 5.0.4 - aioseo.com -->\n\t<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Lokum is a Turkish confection made by heating sugar, starch and water to give it a soft, springy texture. 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