Ostkaka

Even under the same name, “cheese cake,” there are soft versions scooped with a spoon and springy versions that can be sliced thin. Swedish ostkaka is a regional sweet made by curdling milk with rennet, removing the whey and baking the curds. In Småland in the south, eggs and almonds are added, while in Hälsingland, farther north, the flavor of the milk and a smooth cut surface are highlighted. In the traditional method, ready-made cheese is not used; instead, milk is first curdled to make the body of the sweet.

A plate of ostkaka served with ice cream and strawberry jam. Photo: Frugan, 2006-09-16, location unknown. Original image / CC BY 2.0. Reduced-size version from the source. The Exif data records the use of f-spot, but what processing was done is unknown. No additional processing was applied for this use.

The Småland Method That Keeps the Curd Grains

In the Småland method, milk mixed with wheat flour is warmed, rennet is added, and the milk is left undisturbed to set. The drained curds are combined with eggs, cream, sugar, almonds and other ingredients, poured into a pan and baked. The fine grains of curd are not completely smoothed out, leaving a texture on the tongue that differs from that of a batter in which cream cheese is worked until uniform.

Chef Tina Nordström’s recipe (ingredient proportions and method) curdles the milk at 35–37°C, drains off the liquid in a cloth-lined colander, adds chopped sweet almonds and bakes the mixture at 175°C for about 50 minutes. The temperatures differ between the step of curdling the milk and the step of baking the batter containing eggs.

At home, there is also a method that uses cottage cheese and skips the first step of curdling milk. Some formulas combine the granular cheese with eggs, cream, wheat flour and almonds, and add bitter almond flavoring to the sweet almonds. The aroma of almond joins the mild flavor of the milk.

The Hälsingland Method: Baked Twice and Sliced Thin

Hälsingland ostkaka contains no almonds. Many versions use no eggs, although some methods use a small amount of egg or flour to adjust the firmness. Whereas the Småland version keeps fine grains of curd, this version is made by controlling how the curd is broken up and how the whey is drained, and by adjusting the temperature and stirring time. When cut, the cross-section is smooth, and unlike the Småland version, which is eaten by scooping up the curd grains, it has a springiness that squeaks slightly when chewed.

In the two-stage baking, the thick, dark crust that forms first is removed, and the cake is baked once more to give the surface a thin golden color. When it is chilled thoroughly in the pan and allowed to settle, it can be sliced thin. Before serving, liquid cream is poured over the slices, they are rewarmed in the oven, and cold fruit sauce or jam is served alongside. There is also a method of cooking it in butter, and in Järvsö, some versions are finished bright yellow by brushing saffron on the surface.

The Application for Name Protection for Hälsingeostkaka

An application for a protected name for “Hälsingeostkaka,” made in Hälsingland, was filed in 2023, and the application document was published in the Official Journal of the EU on August 5, 2026. The specification calls for milk from the region to be curdled within 72 hours of milking, for the cake to be baked to a height of 5–10 centimeters, and for it to be cut for serving. As of October 2026, the application is at the publication stage, which is different from a decision to register. Småland ostkaka with almonds is not covered by this application.

Bringing Dishes to Celebrations and the Custom of Sharing

In the accounts and household records of Bishop Brask from around 1520, it is named as a Christmas Day dish, and it also appears in a Latin–Swedish vocabulary from 1538. It was already a sweet on celebratory tables by the early 16th century at the latest.

Food that guests brought to weddings, funerals, Christmas and Easter was called “färning.” Each farm household made it to its own formula, sometimes delivering it before the feast. The baskets carried home were also filled with small portions of other households’ dishes to share with family members who had stayed behind. The practice of bringing sweets and dishes served to divide the work of preparing the meal and to share food with those who could not attend.

Before ovens became widespread, the cake was baked from above and below by setting fire under the pot and placing embers on the lid as well. In Småland, there was a custom of scooping from the center, which is said to have been either to give the soft center to the most honored guests or to avoid the edges of the tin-lined copper pot. Differing explanations of the order of eating have also been passed down.

From a Farmhouse Sweet to a Shop Product

In the 20th century, commercial production and sales also spread: Frödinge began production for the local market in 1955 and in 1956 opened sales to a wholesaler in Stockholm. In Hälsingland, small dairies also carry on the methods handed down in the area. Since 2004, November 14 has been “Ostkaka Day,” and competitions and local events showcase the flavors of different households and makers. Both widely distributed products and the regional sweet made by curdling local milk, baking it, cutting it and warming it are loved under the name ostkaka.

Glossary