Flódni

Flódni is a pastry of many layered fillings, handed down in Jewish households in Hungary. Poppy seeds, walnuts, apples and other fillings are each spread between thin sheets of dough. Some versions add plum jam, and the cut surface reveals layers of filling that differ in both color and aroma.

Preparing each filling and layering them

In one family’s recipe, ground poppy seeds are simmered with milk and sugar until thick enough to spread. The walnuts are also finely ground, and the apples are grated and squeezed to remove their juice. The dough is rolled out and laid in a pan, and the fillings and dough are layered alternately and baked. The excess liquid is squeezed from the apples to keep the dough beneath from becoming too wet.

Among household versions, some use three fillings—poppy seed, walnut and apple—and finish with a coating of apricot jam. Another shop adds plum jam as one of the layers. The number and order of the layers reflect each family’s way of making it.

A pastry shared in celebration

It has been made as a sweet to share with family and neighbors at Purim, a Jewish festival. One family’s memories include a scene of a mother baking it the day before, wrapping it on plates and delivering it to people. Preparing a pastry for giving also takes the effort of making several fillings separately and layering them.

A 1935 cookbook, and flódni carried on in pastry shops

A resource introducing Hungarian Jewish culture relays a recipe from a 1935 kosher cookbook. The dough is divided into five sheets, with poppy seed, apple, walnut and plum jam layered in turn between them; the top sheet is scored, brushed with egg and baked well. An alternative that adds a sweet layer of grated carrot is also included.

Some Hungarian makers roll leavened dough thin and bake it with four layered fillings. A pastry once given as a gift at home also lives on as a sliced item in pastry shops.

Glossary